Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Around the Futenma Problem in 80 Seconds

"Cliff-sensei, have you ever been to war?"
"No, stupid girl, I haven't."
"Yes you have, liar! You're American!"

The above is a (somewhat true) conversation I had with a 2nd grade girl during lunch last week. After she made her acute observation, she went back to eating her rice and started talking about how poo stinks. But what brought her to ask that question in the first place? I think she most likely heard her parents talk about Futenma over dinner.

But what is Futenma and what does it have to do with war? For the three or four friends/family members that read this blog, I will give a brief rundown of a political issue that has been making daily headlines in Japan since last October.

After World War II, Okinawa was under US administration. The currency was the dollar and people drove on the right side of the road. Then, 27 years later, America gave Okinawa back to Japan, but...America still controlled about 20% of the land through its military bases.


Fast forward to last August and a big election was held. A new party overthrew the old one that had been the major ruling party since 1955. The new prime minister that was elected was Yukio Hatoyama, and to show that he meant business, he announced he was going to review an old military base transfer treaty that called for Futenma Air Station to be moved out of a major city in Okinawa to a non-major city in...Okinawa.

(Futenma MCAS in Ginowan)

That non-major city, Nago, is the closest thing I have to a city. It's about a 30 minute drive south and it is where I do my karate, Japanese lessons, and food shopping.

(It takes about 90 minutes to drive from 'Me' to 'Futenma Base')

Why would Hatoyama want to review the old treaty? Because people in Nago don't want the base coming to them and most people want the base out of Okinawa completely.

But what are some of the benefits of hosting a base? Local businesses get a huge boost, for one. Also, municipalities hosting the bases get money and jobs are created for 'the locals'. From an economic point of view, hosting a base would seem like a great idea! Also, we can protect Japan from Russia...no Vietnam...I mean China, wait...North Korea!

So why do most Okinawan people not like military bases? Well...
  • Old people don't like the military because 1 in 4 civilians died during the Battle of Okinawa.
  • Middle age people don't because we rape their junior-high school daughters (here and here), and crash helicopters into universities and planes into farms.
  • Young women don't because we act like douches. Or in more extreme cases, we tell a girl, 'I'm leaving for Afghanistan tomorrow', get her pregnant, then after she bumps into us a few weeks later and learns we lied to her, we pretend like we don't know her.
  • Young men don't because...well...I don't know, but they didn't let me join the local soccer team.
Who does like us? Kids! They love us!

So when Hatoyama said he wanted to review the treaty, Okinawa rejoiced. But instead of telling America that Okinawa doesn't want the base and to move it somewhere else, Hatoyama became responsible for the relocation. (Which to me is America saying, 'YOU move us.')

Hatoyama tried very hard. People have to give him that. He took his time making his decision because he wanted to review all possible options. But it's hard to appease everybody when everybody is protesting at you. America was protesting against the review, Ginowan people were protesting against the base's existence, Nago people were protesting against the base's transfer, and when the media found out of a possible relocation site outside the prefecture, those people protested, too. The guy couldn't catch a break.

But finally, this week, about 8 months after saying he was going to look into the issue, Hatoyama has made his decision. He will...go along with the original treaty.

I don't have a strong opinion about the whole thing (I try to avoid them), but I do think I can objectively say that this is how most Okinawan people feel right now:

(putting my Digital Arts degree to use)

Disclaimer: Yes, I know not all military people are bad. I have a lot of friends in the military. Also, Okinawa does not hate me. Most people are intelligent enough to differentiate between a person and a cause. Finally, if the bases were moved out of Okinawa, all those Japanese people with jobs on base would become unemployed. That would suck.

The main reason I made this post was because I wanted to include the above photo. Cheers.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Random Foods

When I visited America last Christmas, one of the first things out of my mom's mout was, "Are you eating over there?"

The answer is, of course, yes. A lot, actually. During the week I am short on time and will either eat out or cook something easy. During the weekend, however, I may find a recipe on the internet to try cooking myself or I may have something cooked for me.

A few weekends ago, I was treated to some squid ink pasta. The ink came from Iejima, where it is apparently known for its quality.


Okinawa is famous for its squid ink soup, but you can mix squid ink in anything from pasta to rice. Like an Oreo, it'll turn your mouth black. Also, you'll notice something else has turned black a day or so later after a trip to the bathroom...

This past weekend, I had some fish made for me. The fish is called buri, and you can buy a couple of chopped up heads at the grocery store for about $3.00. Just throw everything in a pot, add your own stock, boil it down, throw in the vegetables, and voila! I was told the eye is the best part.

I tried arranging my plate to make it look appetizing. How'd I do?


Friday, May 14, 2010

Koinobori


May 5th is Children's Day in Japan, and starting back in April, people hang up koinobori, or 'carp streamers', in hopes that their boys will grow up big and strong.

During Golden Week, I took a trip to Yomitan to see some "awesome koinobori". Apparently there weren't as many as last year, but there were more than I am use to seeing, and having them strung up over a river made for a nice effect.



Thursday, April 08, 2010

Food of Hokkaido

When I travel, I try to spend less money on souvenirs and more money on food. Why? Because I like food. For you Japanese-studiers, I have been called a 食いしん坊. Not sure how negative the nuance is, but my dictionary says, 'big eater', so I can't really disagree.

My Sapporo food-highlights are:

Genghis-Khan - Lamb and vegetables cooked yakiniku-style. Goes great with beer. Apparently it's named after some Mongolian.

Hairy Crab - or kegani, was my favorite. I was expecting the hairs to be prickly, but they were very soft.


Miso Ramen - People don't eat much ramen in Okinawa, so I took the opportunity to eat a lot of it while I was here.

Fish Sex Organs - or tachi-pon, is...fish sex organs (白子) in a ponzu sauce.


Oysters - I had oysters once in high school and hated them. Then we ordered huge grilled ones, and they were excellent.

Ika-somen - or raw squid cut up in noodle-like strips. This was served with a whole squid next to it. The waiter asked how we wanted it prepared, and that was when we noticed that it was still alive because the tentacles were moving. We went with tempura.

Friday, April 02, 2010

Motorcycle

I have a new mode of transportation: a Kawasaki ZRX 400.

It is mandatory to go to bike school before getting your bike license in Japan. The school cost me a lot of money and took about two months to complete. I got my license last June. Fast forward 9 months later and I finally bought a bike.


I was worried I might have forgotten how to ride, but as I pulled off into heavy traffic and rode the two hours back to Ogimi, I felt completely in control and realized the money I had spent on classes had been worth it. Not only did I remember how to ride, but I felt safe doing so.

While enjoying my new toy, I sometimes think just how sucky it would be to lose control, roll along the road at 80 kph, then get run over by a car.

But I try not to think about that too much.

Thursday, April 01, 2010

Hamanasu Karate Tournament

I teach a small English class of six kids every Tuesday night at the Yamakawa house. Karen, the eldest who is about to be an 8th grader, also does karate at the same dojo as me. She qualified a couple of months ago to go to the 4th Annual Hamanasu All Japan Junior High School Karate Elimination Tournament (whew!) in Sapporo, Hokkaido. I had not been to Hokkaido before, and neither had Vaughn, so we both jumped at the excuse to take a trip up north.

(it's colder in Hokkaido than in Okinawa)

We arrived Friday night and the schedule for everybody was:

Saturday - practice
Sunday - tournament
Monday - tournament
Tuesday - go home

Looking at the schedule and not seeing a lot of (or any!) free time, Vaughn and I revised the schedule a little bit to:

Saturday - hot spring
Sunday - tournament (to see Karen!)
Monday - beer and chocolate factory
Tuesday - go home

Happy with our schedule, we sat back and relaxed as the tour guides did all the plane ticket and hotel reservations for us.

(view from our hotel room)

I was looking forward to doing the hot spring because I wanted to walk outside naked in -3℃ (26.6°F) weather and have it be culturally accepted. Mission accomplished. +1 XP.

The beer and chocolate factory were exactly what I expected them to be. At the end of the beer tour, we were allowed to 'sample' up to three glasses of Sapporo Classic within a 20 minute time-frame. Vaughn and I met this challenge, but I ran into a little trouble on the train ride back. We were waiting on the platform for the rapid train to arrive and after those three beers, I really had to use the bathroom. Seeing that I had only a minute before the train arrived and knowing that I wouldn't have a chance to go to the bathroom for another 20 minutes, I ran to the end of the platform, which was deserted, and went off the ledge. Not exactly classy, but if a tree falls in a forrest and no one hears it, does it make a sound?

But then I heard the train arriving...and I was still going (3 beers!). The train pulls up right next to me, and I hang my head like an ostrich thinking they can't see me if I can't see them. Then the train pulled away with all the passenger cars going past me...and I realized I missed my train. Vaughn told me later that as the train pulled away, the conductor announced that there was a toilet in the 3rd car.

All the vacationing aside, the purpose of our trip was to see Karen compete against 122 other 7th grade girls from all over Japan in kata.

(camera credit: Vaughn)

How did she do? First place! She was the only one from Okinawa to place in anything. Vaughn later commented, 'I was never a #1 All-American anything...'

Now if she would only do her English homework...

(it says she won)

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Dinosaurs in the Classroom

My final lesson for the 5th/6th grade class at Ogimi Elementary was to have the kids give self-introductions as dinosaurs. They took turns standing in front of the class and gave the following example presentation:

  • My name is Pachycephalosaurus.
  • I have two arms and two legs.
  • I live in America.
  • I eat plants.
  • I am 5 meters tall.
  • I weigh 2 tons.

The week before, we had class in the computer lab and the kids did internet searches for their favorite dinosaur. Things I learned:
  • A dinosaur called Dracorex hogwartsia was discovered a couple of years ago and named after the Harry Potter books.
  • I have been saying Ankylosaurus incorrectly ever since I was a kid.
  • Girls have zero interest in dinosaurs.